Position the completed strip at the junction of the suspension channel and the end of the down channels, lining up with the baffles. jONut8pk1B91kS7p1Z6MsGWYHKsw_JZyNlQsSwJtvDaieirezE dRKsRqfpAae2aS-4o=w1820-h1365-no?authuser=0 this pic is a progression, the mark, the pin up, the stitch I cut a piece of 1/2" grosgrain to go across the entire UG end, cut a few pieces of 1/4" x 1.5" grosgrain for loops, lay it out and make a mark at each baffle. I was going to post this when I completed everything, but I can show what I have done so far.
#T clew ring upgrade
I have done up clews for my gathered end hammocks, I designed a new bridge for me, but I need to upgrade the planned suspension. If that’s close to the mark then the tension will change from UQ to UQ based on how heavy the UQ is ( winter vs summer UQ etc).įor some reason I can’t see your pictures? Too bad because I’m curios to see how you use the ring From leivioa’s comments and pictures though he seems to imply the “right” tension is the amount needed to mimic the arc of the hammock (un weighted I assume). Very interesting Brian, it seems reasonable to me that there is an optimal amount of tension/pull. much lighter and likely still overkill for purpose. the newer suspension I just finished uses 1/2" split rings and 1/4" grosgrain loops attached to a 1/2" grosgrain base. The above photos use 3/4" grosgrain and 3/4" split rings. dropping the size of the materials used to attach the suspension has far more weight savings possibilities than the cords themselves IMO. I think the most important point that I have found, is that the potential weight saving are in the attachment points, not the cords. I suspect that it is always going to be a balancing act of weight and performance (as is everything we build). I actually went to the bother of measuring and drawing up graphs of how much pull the shock cord gave at 10 - 100% elongation to get an idea of what was available from the cord. So you need enough lines of your chosen shock cord to give you the "pull" you need. not quite enough, so i would likely need to move to a bigger size of cord. If I use about 12 double strands of 1/16" at ~50% elongation, I get ~6-7 pounds of "pull". you could totally use 1 ended clew system, BUT then you also need to find more "pull" from somewhere.
Hoping a picture or two ala shug's hang will shed some light on this. wonder if the center loops of the clew need to be a little longer than the others but, I have not seen where anyone else seems to need to do this (so the problem must be me:)) Is this what others are finding too?Īt first I thought maybe I messed up the differential cut of the quilt but this is too much tension along the baffle (not across). Loosening up the clew makes the bum area fine but the other parts end up way to loose (and no longer do there magic hugging without being restrictive). This is causing the down to be over compressed (CBS warning). It pretty nice everywhere except under the bum where there is clearly too much tension. This amount of tension seems to work, mostly. Im asking because Im finding that the estimate 87-85% recommended length ends up tensioning the quilt so that it rises nearly to the hammocks ridge line (higher than with the channel suspension system). it really drove home just how tight a UQ needs to be hung.
#T clew ring how to
Any one have pictures of the their "clewed" UQ strung up next to (but not under) their hammock? Shug did something similar in one of his videos on how to hang an underquilt and.
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